Epidavros Visit

 One place everyone has to visit, after they see the island, is the 2,500 year old theatre at Epidavros. It's only an hour away.  

Famous for its incredible acoustics.  You'll see a tourist in the middle of the arena drop a coin and look up at a friend right up the top of the seats to see if they've heard it hit the ground. 

Not likely with all the people there and the constant chattering and murmuring of tour guides. 

Performances of Greek dramas and comedies still take place during the Epidavros festival in July and August. 

The ticket is 20 euros which seems a standard price for these ancient sites.  I only pay 10 euros because I'm an EU pensioner. 

I had to show my Greek ID card and was a bit worried when I couldn't find it in my bag.  Fortunately they accepted my driver's licence. 

I've been to Epidavros many times but not in the last 10 years. We usually sit and have a coffee while friends and family do the touristy stuff. I enjoyed seeing it again. 

K was supposed to park, go and buy a coffee from the canteen and wait for us. The canteen was closed and he had to wait, very patiently I might add, for 2 hours while we wandered around. No coffee, no water, no company. Not easy for him. 

Caroline had been there before and was quite happy to see the sights again 

Sitting on ancient stones watching the parade of tourists.  And parade they did. Tour groups from all over the world dressed in the most intriguing clothing and footwear. We observed the passage of gesturing, photographing, clapping, posing humankind. 

I could have sat their for hours watching them all. 

Many climbed up those dozens of marble steps to the top of the theatre. The younger fitter ones leaping up without fear. 

I was fearful just looking up at the steep stairway. I have climbed up there. I've even been to a performance here. But not for many years. 

One thing I've never done is wander round the rest of the ancient site. It's known as the Aesclepion, a healing centre and a sanctuary. It's a large area with a stadium, temples, large dining areas, hostels for those hoping for a cure. 

It was fascinating to walk around with Julia and Caroline and listen and learn from their comments. Julia especially, having worked all her life in the health field, had some interesting insights. 

It was quite an outing and we were more than ready for food and wine, K especially. 

We drove to the outskirts of a small village, Adami, and found a taverna which has been a favourite of ours for many years. 

It's run by a family, daughters taking orders and serving, Mama in the kitchen, one of the men manning the grill. A granddaughter brought our drinks and basket of bread. 

It was  Sunday and it was buzzing with Greek family groups, from Pappou and Yiayia to babies in  pushchairs. 

K and I did the ordering. 

K kept an eye on what others around us were eating and got us a good traditional meal. 

The feta is from village goats, wine from local vines, greens from the fields, or weekly market. 

Greens. Radicchio I think.  Served with olive oil and lemon juice. 

Lamb chops, cheese pie, grilled rissoles, and tzatziki. And all a lot tastier and cheaper than Poros tourist tavernas. 

Definitely K approved. 

After the main course came the sweets. On the house. 

Syrupy orange cake and this dessert called mustolevria.  It's made after the grape harvest with grape juice and is pleasantly refreshing. 

Poros Visit

                                           My english cousins have just spent 5 days getting to know our island and my Greek family.  They've been reading my blog for years and have both visited Greece before but not Poros. Now they have 'hands on' experience  of the tales in my blog posts .

It was a wonderful 5 days of speaking in the english language and seeing Poros through foreign eyes.  K cooked for them a couple of times and introduced them to his traditional dishes.  And he washed the dishes too. Our mechanical dishwasher has finally given up after 15 years. 

Julia and Caroline admiring the scenery up at the Monastery

The peaceful Monastery courtyard.  There was a monk up on the balcony having a quiet coffee and a chat with a friend.  

He had no problem with us .  Caroline and I donned wrap around skirts to hide our 'manly' trousers.  

Men in shorts are not allowed into the church area either.  This is the first time I've ever seen long trousers provided to cover up men's legs.  Quite amusing.  They were big baggy trews with elastic waists.  One size to fit all.

I thought their problem was women's legs

From the Monastery we took a drive all around the two islands.  The smaller island, Sferia, with it's old town and harbour and the bigger island, Kalavria, with the tourist resorts and the pine forests where we live.

Clumps of pink cyclamen have appeared under the pine trees along the sides of the mountain road.  

We drove up past the ruins of the Temple to Poseidon and stopped to admire the view reaching as far as the coast of Athens.

Then on around the old back road, now in need of repair.  It was originally built as a fire road, was tar sealed and is fast turning into a narrow track with dangerous curves and big potholes.  The view out across the bay to the mainland though is quite stunning.  

Fortunately the weather was mainly fine and they had clear blue skies and calm blue seas.

First stop before civilisation was to take a photo of Teacher's Island with its picturesque white church.  Onward past the ruins of the old Russian Naval station, Love Bay and into Neorio.  Neorio is a long-ish bay popular with Athenian visitors, many of whom have houses there.  

We stopped to see Danae and Yianni's family compound. They live down a short driveway with family houses on either side. 

Then on into town, around the harbour and home in time for tea....

K was waiting for us, not in the best of moods. 

There was a power cut while he was cooking and he hadn't been able to cook the sardines.

The stuffed tomatoes were ready though and after a few irrate phone calls the power came on again, just in time to finish off the sardines, baked in a lemon sauce.      Delicious.  That's the best way he has cooked them!

Home with the Master Chef

Julia, K and Caroline

I had my photo taken too!

One of the wonderful presents they brought us

British soap.  This one had the most delightful name.  I could Not put this one the blog.  Plus a huge jar of 'real' (not NZ) marmite and the softest silk scarf I have ever had the pleasure of wearing.

More to come.....

Old Poros Friends

Old friends are back in town. They lived on here for years, are now here to sell their beautiful island house. 

It was our great pleasure to invite them for a traditional Greek meal and talk about the good old days here on Poros. 

They know us, we know them.  They know our girls, our family. We're an old comfortable fit. 

We caught up.  Children, grandchildren.  Trying to keep up with years that have sped past.

There was a lot of reminiscing, people remembered, times recalled, good and bad.  It ain't always idyllic on this little island.  You find nasty neighbours and crazy persons  everywhere

The boys enjoying pre-lunch aperitifs

Traditional of course

Ouzo and raki

K and Steve

While the girls supped their wine

Local from the barrel

Judy and Jan

All ready for the obligatory photos of a groaning table

Yiouvetsi (beef in tomato sauce with orzo - fat pasta rice and greek chicken and potatoes).  Greek salad and my magnificent homemade gravy.  They wouldn't dare say otherwise

K was the chief cook and bottle washer.  Good man.

It gave me time to talk

The cheese plate included this Danish blue, what we call rokfor.

We all agreed it was really good.  And from Lidls.  Around 3-4 euros.  Try it if you've got a Lidls near you.  It's creamy and tangy

They brought us this good bottle of wine.  I wonder how they knew.  We had just finished our last bottle of this given to us by previous visitors brother Paul and sis in law Karen

Where else do you buy a decent wine on this small island?

From daughter Danae down on the harbour!

When they asked what I might like to drink she just scrolled through her archives and found the exact wine we enjoyed.  How's that for service.  

Here is Danae with her frequent visitors.  She's right on the waterfront.  You can't get 'downtown' without passing by and stopping in for a chat and a smile.

Steve, Judy and Danae

Thanks folks.

All that's missing from this is me!! 

As usual, I took all the photos. 

And the rain was there as well. Every time Jan had to get on or off the car ferry the heavens opened.  The last downpour was biblical. The harbour area flooded in minutes. We sat in the car peering through the rain cascading down the windscreen hoping it would clear before the next ferry arrived. It did so Jan made a dash, only to get drenched on the other side. 

Poseidon, or was it Zeus, really had it in for her. 

UpDate

We've been back home 5 days now. Just did the last lot of washing. The first day back we had rain and the 2nd wasn't much better. 

When we left it was still summer but now there's a chill in the air, more rain on the horizon.  Definitely autumn going on winter. We had already ordered the first load of firewood. K gave our woodman a call and told him to get it here this week. 

I've been feeling 'off' but hopefully today is turn-around day.  There's work to done. The house has to be 'wintered' though we did start that before Poppi left.  Heavy curtains have been put up.  

Here are the last photos of the beautiful park at our holiday resort. 

Canna lily

A grove of Eucalyptus trees

This one was a giant. It's been around quite a few years.

Still trying to find the name of the tree with the big hard brown seed casings.  An Australian bottle tree was suggested.  I can see why it's called a bottle tree. 

But this is the tree where I collected the seed casings. The seeds look similar but the tree does not have that bottle shape. 

A greek hibiscus, so I'm told. It does look like a hibiscus but the flowers are so much smaller than the ones I know from NZ. 

October is going to be a busy month. We have more visitors this month than we had all summer.  Tavernas and cafeterias should all remain open till the 28th which is a National Holiday and, weather permitting, all the island will be out celebrating. 

I hope it stays dry. Temps have dropped to 22o.  That's a big difference from a month ago. Enjoyable though for those from colder climates. 

Flora

 

The climate and the rich red soil here at the Base is ideal for all sorts of flora. Trees seem taller and greener and there are all sorts of plants I've only heard of but never seen. 

Of course having 24 hour gardeners really helps.  The old gardener on his little tractor has been here for years. He knows this land. 

The automatic watering system comes on every day and every night.  When I'm going down for coffee at 6pm I have to skip out of the way or get drenched. 

I don't know where their water comes from but there's plenty of it. 

The olive trees are bending under the weight of their harvest. Most of the olives are huge but all is not well in this fertile land. 

It's blowing a gale once again. The sea has white horses (or white sheep if you're Greek) and the olives are falling fast. 

The ones I picked up have black spots which mean they've been infected with dakos. 

They can still collect the oil but it's not extra virgin. 

The smaller olives in the photo above are wild olives

These tall shady trees are all over the resort. I don't know what they are but I'll find out

They produce these tough brown seed cases. I've taken them home before but they didn't sprout. I'll try again 

This is a bay tree which produces those fragrant bay leaves you use in cooking. I've never such a tall one. It's 4 or 5 metres 

Stories

The wind blew hard for 3 days.   Instead of swimming I walked, around the resort, discreetly taking photos. This is a military area and I don't want to be arrested for spying. 

Every afternoon I meet the same women, also out walking.  

One of them is always on her phone. Talking and walking.

We exchange greetings and the other woman asked where I got my trekking sticks.  I told her my brother had brought them for me from NZ.  NZ??? Where was that.  Down there beside Australia. No. She just couldn't understand.  I ended up waving my arms and telling her it was a long way-away.

It's been a long time since I've had to explain where NZ is. Most people at least have heard of Australia.

Once someone asked me if we all lived underground 'downunder'.    

So many people thought I came from Iceland or Ireland or even Greenland.  Maybe it was my accent.  

Nowadays everyone, nearly everyone, knows about NZ, and have eaten it's frozen lamb. A surprising number have visited. 

I've mentioned before my greek m-in-law who thought the whole world spoke Greek and was puzzled that I couldn't speak the language fluently. 

She attended the first few years at a tiny school and could barely read and write.    She and her sisters helped in the fields, picking olives, gathering almonds and oregano and herding their goats. 

Passing certificates were rumoured to be handed over after a present of a 17 kilo tin of olive oil. 

Being part of the Greek Armed Forces does not make you a law abiding citizen. That is glaringly obvious here at the Navy resort.

In the cafeteria we slide our trays along, choose the food we want to eat, pay when our turn in line comes along. 

We choose a table and go off to a side trolley to pick up a paper tablecloth and napkins, salt and pepper and use the oil pourer to put olive oil on our salad. 

Some people go well beyond this and stuff their handbags with extra napkins, tablecloths, packets of salt, even glasses and cutlery.

What we saw today 'takes the cake' as they say .

Vinegar on the left, olive oil on the right. (She didn't manage to empty the whole container)

An old lady...older than me anyway, took a plastic water bottle out of her bag and filled it up with olive oil from the glass salad-oil pourer . 

K didn't let that pass. He accosted the woman, and her daughter . Their excuse? Their door was squeaky and needed oiling. Original at least. 

It wasn't just oil but a stack of paper napkins and a few hundred grams of salt.

If anyone needs extras the subsidised mini market sells oil, salt, napkins and even knives and forks.  Knives and forks were what we saw last year disappearing into someone's bag.

The weather is beautiful now, the beach peaceful. We go swimming every day. The water is freezing but I manage to wade in, dunk under and swim around. 

Having done my duty I can dry off in the sun and get a little colour. I could sit here for hours listening to the murmer of voices coming from a few dozen bobbing heads, reading one of my 6 books and occasionally checking my tablet. Internet on the beach is strong. I can play my daily wordle and quordle and check into Shein. 

 

2 am Musings

 We've had hundreds of visitors over the years.  Friends, friends of friends.  Greater extended family and lots of closer family.  First brothers and now their children and their families and friends.

Many people I still remember though it could be 50 years since we met . Most I can picture but often can't remember names.  

Who was David who visited about 10 years ago?  I can recall so many details but not his surname and how he found us.

It was November and he'd been in Athens for a few days. He walked everywhere and used public transport. He'd been out to the monument commemorating the Battle of Marathon. David went by bus in the middle of a thunderstorm and got drenched. He enjoyed every minute of it!  

He stayed in Spartan rooms on Poros, 15 euros a night.  And he wanted to interrogate the girls on life in an economic depression.  They weren't enthusiastic naturally enough but he was satisfied with their replies.

Next day we hurried him off the island just before another storm hit.  The taxi boats had tied up because of high seas and the car ferry was about to stop too. We rushed him across the Straits and he caught a bus....to where? Maybe Epidavros. He loved history. And current events. Couldn't understand why my blog wasn't more political.

Does he ring a bell with anyone? I'm thinking he might be a distant cousin. Brother of John who visited recently.  No photo. 

Then there were the 2 *Karitane nurses (for newborns and their mother's) back in the 80s.   Lovely girls. They brought a soft stuffed bunny for Elli who was just a wee baby. We still have it.  I have a photo of them but no names. 

*Karitane nurses I think are only in NZ. 

And my Uncle George who visited in the late 70s, driving a small car where he slept.  

We lived in a tiny basement apartment and the fridge door had just fallen off. I had a thick towel hanging over the front to keep things cool.

Uncle G had been in the NZ army and was captured in northern Greece after the German occupation .  He was travelling back visiting all the people and places he remembered, in Greece and in Austria where he spent the rest of the war working for the German war effort.

I wish I had asked more questions back then. He wrote his memoirs but they're held in some army museum in NZ. I'd like to read them, know exactly where he was in Greece. 

That's what went through my mind in the wee hours last night. 

Summer Resort

 A long journey yesterday. 4 hours  on the road and then endless trips up 4 zigzag ramps to haul up to our room pillows, bedding, suitcases with clothes, bathroom gear and other bags of necessary paraphernalia. 

We are at our favourite Navy resort for 2 weeks. Cheap and cheerful.  They provide a room with 2 beds and mattresses, bathroom, a cupboard and a small fridge. We bring the rest.

At the end of last summer we decided we needed to cut down on all the things we 'needed'. So I made, a list. 4 pages long. The only thing we cut down on were the number of books for me to read.  6 instead of 10.

So here we are. 2nd day and 2nd day of high winds, whirling sand , flying chairs and waves?  Waves? The sea is supposed to be as flat as a millpond. I don't 'do' waves anymore. Had enough of them in NZ. This is the Med.

It's s end of season and there's a serious lack of 'essentials'.  No coke zero and no wine or raki in the subsidised supermarket. We had to make an emergency dash for a nearby Lidls this morning.

A local alien with a mug of red wine. No wine glasses this year. 

Nothing much else to do anyway with this wind. If we can't swim there's nothing left besides  drink coffee, eat and gossip. K has found a few Navy friends for the gossip.  But they have their wives with them. I'm seriously antisocial. I'm on holiday. Small talk is not my forte.

I've retired to a distant table to 'work'.   Our rooms have virtually no internet signal so I have to come down to the cafeteria to write my blog.

I've downloaded a couple of games to play when I wake up at 2am.  I can't listen to YouTube and I can't turn on the light to read my book. 

So there you have our lives for the next week or so. 

No washing, no cleaning, No cooking. The only thing i have to do is sweep up some sand now and again. It always ends up on the floor of the room no matter how well we shower before returning.

What's Cooking

 A look at what's been cooking in our Greek kitchen over summer

K making his favourite summer dish Briam

A sort of ratatouille.

Zucchini, aubergine, peppers plus carrots, potatoes, onions, fresh tomatoes, parsley, oregano and lots of olive oil ....all the goodness of summer.

I would have added basil and mint but he's a traditionalist.

K is the fish cook in our house

Unless it's fillets fried in batter

These fish are called 'kokalia'. Sea Bream?  Too many bones for my liking but I dissected a few of them.  Their name in Greek means 'bony'. Yeh....

He cooked these in the oven with zucchini, tomatoes and potatoes

Beetroot

K loves to accompany fish with boiled beetroot, bulbs and leaves with a lot of olive oil and vinegar.

 Beetroot are a winter vegetable but these were fresh mid summer with tender leaves.

Another K dish

Spetsofai

Spicy sausages with tomatoes and peppers and a bit of boukovo (hot chilli pepper)

Shrimps saganaki

Shrimps with tomatoes and feta 

Fish, the family dish

Red mullet fried in it's entirety. Accompanied by boiled zucchini.

More bones for me to remove. Filleted fish is not traditional in this house
 

Of all these the only dish I cooked was

Peach crumble

    For daughter Elli.  I also made a small one for K and he surprised me by asking for more.  I have stewed apples and crumble topping in the freezer.  An easy sweet.  

I cook too in case you wondered but he has his specialities and I'm very happy to have handed all the fish over to him to prepare. He prefers to cook the way his mother did, very traditionally Greek.

Tis The Season

 

Not a good season for grapes. 

Those on our vine that didn't turn into raisins were sweet but there weren't many decent bunches. 

The vineyards down in the fertile plain near us had mixed crops. Those that were well looked after, de-leafed, fertilised, watered and kept weed free had an average harvest. So they say. Everyone's an expert here and everyone knows their neighbours business better than their own. 

Making wine is hard work if you want a few hundred kilos of your own vintage to drink with friends over the winter. 

We finally stopped at the top of our road and collected half a dozen figs from the branches hanging over our neighbour's fence.  They were small and sweet.  We should have picked them earlier. There were a dozen at least squashed on the tarmac

Vaso and her son were collecting carobs from their tree one morning.

Vaso once collected carobs from all the neighborhood trees for her goats. She gathered them all, often bent double, not wanting to leave even one languishing on the ground or hanging from the tree. She then hauled the heavy sacks up the incline to her house, without breaking a sweat. 

Now it's her son who's in command. They gathered a small bag for the chickens and left the rest to rot. 

Another neighbourhood tree. 

The pomegranates are still small and unripe. I'm hoping for a bag of these in a few weeks. 

The white bougainvillia is starting to blossom .  The white flowers should bloom into November. 

Our 'new' water feature.