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Palm Sunday for the Greek Orthodox
We are allowed to eat fish today so we actually left the island and went an hour north to the little fishing village of Vathi.
Picturesque harbour of Vathi on the Methana peninsular. K's mother was born in the tiny hamlet of Megalohori on the hillside above.
We were the first to arrive and chose the best spot on the bay.
There are four tavernas around the harbour, each specialising in fresh seafood. Most of the families have fishing boats and the fish is fresh and seasonal.
In the good old days we often used to come here with friends on a Sunday for a long leisurely fish lunch right beside the water. Big yachts and speed boats would bring in families from Athens and the place would be buzzing by 2 oclock. By 2 today there were only three other tables occupied. A sign of the economic strain.
We didn't order laden plates of food. Just a mini bottle of ouzo, some small shrimp and a plate of octopus, an essential with ouzo.
What's a fish taverna without a cat? But surprisingly, only one
Fishing boats
A large seabird eyeing the sea on the light at the breakwater. We saw several of these diving and fishing in the bay
Local fisherman doing what so many elderly gents do all over the world. K said he would be fishing for octopus
It is over 10 years since we were last here and it was noticeable that the younger generation had taken over these tavernas. This is Antonis, the next generation. At 8 years old he was serving, clearing tables and bringing the bill
At the end of the meal we were brought a two bottle of raki and 2 pieces of halvas, semolina lenten sweet. If you ever have the chance to visit, go to the taverna with the red and white checked tablecloths. Terrific service from mother and son. Spotless toilets colourfully decorated with plastic seashells and superbly cooked food. The shrimps were crisp and not at all oily. A complimentary bowl of aubergine salad dip was the best I have ever tasted.
A warm sunny day, perfect for a spring outing.
As we left these giant shellfish were brought in from a boat. Not to my taste at all but K loves them. The insides are slimy but so are oysters. They can be eaten raw or cooked like a mussel or oyster
Headline from Greekreporter.com
EU Directive Tells Greece to Ban Komboloi (worry beads) over noise pollution
........... that HAS to be an April Fools joke, doesn't it?
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I've seen those big shellfish being brought out of the sea in Formentera, and have always wondered what they were.
ReplyDeleteThese ones are the biggest I've seen. They are called 'pina' in greek (as in pina colada). Oysters ok, mussels quite edible but just the sight of those drippy slimy insides put me off.
DeleteI've never eaten octopus, but I'd be willing to try it in a place like that! I was surprised at the eight year old "working" at the taverna. They sure wouldn't do anything like that here. -Jenn
ReplyDeleteOctopus is soft and not at all strong if cooked properly and dressed with oil and vinegar.
DeleteMost greek tavernas around here are family run and that means from grandma to grandson. This little boy had obviously had a bit of experience, it wasnt his first summer on the job. And he was polite, fast and cheerful. There probably is some kind of EU law prohibiting it who takes notice of the EU?
I'd swap 'my' pina for some shrimp and that dip. The pina look huge, please tell me they are chopped or sliced before eating!
ReplyDeleteI've just found a forgotten (2nd hand) book on my shelf - 'The Art of Greek Cookery' published 1961. It is probably time I read it!!
They are mostly bbqed in the shell and chopped in half. Don't think that all the shell is full of 'meat'! Some do just 'slip it down'. Yuk!
DeleteA 1961 cookbook must have authentic recipes. No greek sushi or pomegranites in the salad!
I'm a huge seafood fan, love fish especially salmon or fresh snapper. Think I'd do well there lol
ReplyDeleteYou would love the fish and the atmosphere, and no tourists
ReplyDelete