Friday 30 March 2018

Patrick Leigh Fermor






Sir Patrick Leigh Fermour

Travel writer, traveller, scholar and greek hero.  At age 18, in 1930s he walked from the Hook of Holland to Istanbul.  During the war he helped the greek resistance in Crete and daringly captured a german general and abducted him to Egypt. 




In the 1960s Paddy and his wife Joan built a hideaway in the southern Peloponese in Greece where he lived till his death in 2011.  He wanted the house to become a retreat for artists, writers, and scholars.  The Benaki Museum and the Stavros Niarchos Cultural Foundation are restoring the buildings and Aria Hotels will provide the services.

There are three stone buildings surrounded by gardens of olive and cypress trees.  The perfect place to 'create' during the day and spend evenings discussing and arguing with other artistes over glasses of local Manian wine.

His book 'A Time of Gifts' is an enchanting tale of his travels through Europe as far as Hungary.  The second volume in the series is 'Between the Woods and the Water' appeared in 1986 and the third volume taking him close to the Turkish border 'The Broken Road' was published after his death.

My mother read all his books, especially those on Greece, 'Mani' and 'Roumeli' and often wondered if he would finish the trilogy of his walk through Europe before her death.  Alas she died before he did and so never read the last volume.   I did however, many years ago, write a letter to him asking on her behalf when the book would be published.  He replied, not mentioning the book, but telling me about his stay near the watermill opposite Poros with his Roumanian lover Balasha Cantacuzene.  I sent the letter to my mother who of course was thrilled.  I wish now I had made a copy of it, though it probably still exists somewhere amongst her papers.



Painting by John Craxton

An exhibition is being held at the British Museum from March to July this year focusing on the friendships of greek painter Nikos Ghikas, english artist John Craxton and Fermor.   The exhibition is titled 'Charmed Lives in Greece' and records their love of greece and their lives on the island of Hydra, Corfu, Crete and at Fermors villa at Kardamyli.






20 comments:

  1. wow that was really good reading. I just love different types of art, my grandad was a painter who had exhibitions in Auckland, I'm sure his paintings are floating around the family somewhere.

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    1. You should try and get a copy of one! I had never seen Craxtons painting before. It is interesting, some of it quite abstract

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  2. I like John Craxton's painting. Never heard of him before.

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    1. I hadn't heard of him either. I know the Greek painter. I like craxtons. They are different and full of light and colour

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  3. I'm sure I associate Fermor's name with Moussaka. I'm pretty sure that Rick Stein said his recipe was the best he'd ever eaten. I must check on this later.

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    1. Right on the moussaka! Stein visited his house not long after his death and his cook made him her moussaka. Another great Stein episode

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  4. That was very kind of Fermour to reply to your letter.
    I like the painting of Craxon. I'm going to look him up now.
    Greetings Maria x

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    1. I didn't expect a reply so it was indeed a very nice surprise, especially for my mother who loved his books

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  5. Now lovley he replied to your letter and that your mother was able to read it before she passed.
    What a good daughter you are.
    I might have to see if I can purchase these books on kindle and read them myself

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    1. Fermors books are a bit scholarly but well worth the read. He wrote them decades after the event but apparently had a wonderful memory. And if he improvised well it makes for great reading!

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  6. Thanks for telling us about them. Nice touch for the author to write your mother a letter.

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    1. My mother was delighted though she would have been even more so if she had got to read his last book

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  7. Hello, Linda,
    this was such a nice text ;) I read Fermor's "Between the Woods and the Water" some years ago in Romania. It was a magical experience as I lived at the places he had visited, kinda following his steps. As for Craxton, I learned about him when I first visited Poros and I saw the house he lived in. Simple lines, soothing colours; such an intriguing artist.

    Also, I was wondering whether you'd be interested in having a chat about life in the island. I am a Greek currently living in Athens, but I'm thinking of leaving the capital in the next couple of months. I found out about your blog some time ago via expat.com and I would like to talk to you more. In case you'd like that, you can find me here: anastasiakarouti@gmail.com

    Cheers,
    Anastasia

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    1. Thank you so much, Linda. I'll be available any time. I wish you a Happy Easter and enjoyable family moments.
      Kind regards,
      A.

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  8. Happy Easter Linda, to you and family.
    Best wishes Maria x

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    1. Thank you Maria. I hope your Easter was full of tradition, family and great food!

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    2. Yes, it was, thank you Linda, Mass and then all to the head family house, in this case my mum's, to celebrate with family. My brother's, sister's and my family join together to cook and bring traditional food: roast lamb, pasqualina, colomba etc, and we buy the typical artistic chocolate eggs with surprise in them.
      x

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    3. Sounds wonderful. I had never heard of colomba before and have just looked it up on Wikipedia. A sweet bread? Sounds vaguely like our tsoureki but yours in the shape of a dove. Interesting. Thanks

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