Wednesday 14 February 2018

1) Not on the tourist map

I don't want to visit a greek island if I go on holiday.  I live on one.  There are so many fascinating/delightful/graphic/traditional corners of this country where few tourist buses blight the scenery and the only language spoken around you will be Greek.

On the Greek mainland you can choose mountain, lake, seaside village or dusty forgotten little hamlet.



Stemnitsa.

Stemnitsa is a stunning mountain village, sturdy houses built of stone around a central village square.  It has been designated a  traditional settlement and as you drive through you can see why.  The tall stone houses are built on the side of a mountain at about 1050 feet, with narrow cobblestoned alleyways for access.



We visited a couple of times, leaving our car in a park at the edge of town and walking up for a coffee and then rakomelo, raki with honey.  Stemnitsa is cool all through the year, even during the heatwaves of summer so a raki is welcome at any season.  The tavernas around the square were preparing for lunch and the smells drifting through that clear cool air were unbelievable.  Unfortunately both times we had brought a picnic which we ate near a small spring further down the road, a picnic site with views down through the valleys and of the soaring mountains above covered in fir trees 



The village with a population of around 200 was once the shelter for the fighters of the Revolutionary War of 1821, against the Turks of course.  A perfect hideout.  It was also, and still is now, known for its gold and silverworks.  There are 18 churches, the 'cathedral', so to speak, was built in 1810 of chiseled stone and is dedicated to St George.



The roads up to the village are in good condition and it is only a couple of hours from us across on the mainland Peloponese.  One day I would love to spend a few days exploring and trying those tavernas.  I'm sure they'll be serving boiled goat, intestines and bean soups to warm your own innards.  There are guest houses a-plenty and you can stay in one of those stone mansions and enjoy a traditional breakfast with yoghurt, honey, fresh bread, homemade cakes and jams. 

 Nearby are a couple of monasteries literally hanging on the side of the mountain and the Lousios river is down below.  The river is popular for rafting but there are walks along its banks and in the winter Stemnitsa is in the middle of the ski resorts


Monastery of Prodomos (St John the Baptist)

Within a short distance are more of these mountain villages but the others that come to mind, Dimitsana and Vitina are full of tourist buses and crowded all year round.  Stemnitsa is a little jewel. 

Another mountain village which is not so well known is Elliniko, not far from Stemnitsa, slightly lower down.  It has picturesque cobbled streets, stone houses, stone fountains and churches and is simply charming.    Just the sort of place you want to stop and wander around and end up at some small cafe or taverna eating and drinking the day away.



















10 comments:

  1. When I used to go on holidays, I would always hire either Mopeds or a Car to find such places. It looks perfect.

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    1. Most islands still have little villages with very few tourists. A scooter is still the perfect way to find them

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  2. You describe and explain the places very well, Linda. I love stone wall buildings and cobbled streets and when the food is good it's even better.
    Greetings Maria x

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    1. I can imagine this village is similar to some of those beautiful mountain top Italian villages which are so popular with tourists. I would love to visit one in Italy even if I had to share it hundreds of tourists.
      Those stone walls and narrow cobbled lanes are fascinating

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  3. I would love to get into a car and drive around visiting and eating at, all the little villages
    Maybe one day I will. Who knows. But for now. I’ll travel with you xx

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    1. I love these mountain villages. Some of them are literally hanging off the side of the mountain and the houses are built in local stone

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  4. It sounds like a fascinating place, not sure if I'd try that soup mixture you spoke about though.

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    1. Nothing so plain as leek and potato or tomato soup around here

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  5. You had sold the trip to me, I was even planning to renew my passport, then I reached the bit about the goat's innards. How on earth did they manage to build on the mountain side like that? Wonderful photographs.

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    1. Goats innards are extremely popular. Not with me though. You can always stick to salad!!

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