Socrates on the Sea

 Socrates, ancient Greek Philosopher, Teacher and Scholar

Poros water taxi

Son-in-law Kyriakos 

 Captain of the taxi boat

Socrates

Socrates

Greek blue and white

Ship shape and Bristol fashion

This month he is doing the Aliki route

A trip  down the harbour and across to the mainland beaches of Plaka and Aliki

Pulling out from the harbour

Passing the red 'submarine'

the Church of the Holy Cross

and

the old slaughterhouse

Onwards into open sea

First stop Plaka Beach

Crowded today 

A dip in the sea is the perfect way to cool off

Beside the beach is a typical greek seaside taverna

Traditional Greek summer dishes, jugs of wine, cold Greek beer and good prices

The first rocky outcrop around which Kyriakos manoeuvres safely with years of practice

Past the small island of Bourtzi

with the remains of ancient fortifications 

The first fort is believed to be Byzantium built in the 7th century

Rebuilt by the Venetians in 1687

The remains you see today were built in 1826

During WW11 it was used as an ammunition depot by both the Greeks and the Germans

Within swimming distance of Aliki beach

And here is Aliki (aliki is the greek name for a salt marsh)

The beach has hardly changed since I brought my daughters here 40 years ago.  Umbrellas and sunbeds are  rented out now, cheek to jowl. 

Back then we brought our own umbrella and a towel to spread on the sand.

The beach is ideal for families with small children.  It's sand all the way and the water is very shallow.  You need to wade out quite a way before the water gets deep.

There is a taverna at one end

And another taverna on the other side

Fotini's taverna where we were headed

More of that tomorrow

Time

Greek time.....  I've just read somewhere on the web

'Greek time is just english time but delayed by an hour'. 

We have found, to Kosta's huge annoyance, this is the norm.   He keeps 'english' time and gets very annoyed if he's kept waiting, whether it be be 5 minutes, an hour or a week.  We have walked away on occasions when one of his friends or acquaintances has failed to show up on time.

Woe betide tradesmen who are late.  Although anyone dealing with him knows by now that either you come, at least on the day you said you would, or you ignore his phone calls and go into hiding.  

We all have our own rhythm.  Some live a more relaxed life and having to be punctual just causes extra stress.

This 'maniana' philosophy however causes everyone else a lot of stress, especially if you urgently need a plumber or an electrician. 

  Some people are always unreliable.  They just can't help it.  They don't even realise they're late and causing exasperation in others.  When they eventually turn up all is rosy and they'll have every excuse under the sun, if pushed to account for themselves.

Every year around this time we're invited to celebrate with extended family and every year we arrive at the appointed time and every year, including this one, we wait and wait, drinking water and dragging on a cigarette till someone else arrives.

We know the scenario but we hope, against hope, that maybe this year things will be different.

They weren't.  They were worse.  We sat by ourselves, watching every passing car, eyeing every pedestrian and expecting a miracle.

The table was set.  We weren't in the wrong place and I hadn't got the time wrong (hallelujah.  I would have been in deep s***)

Almost an hour later everyone started turning up in dribs and drabs. 

We finally ordered, got the food and left an hour later to catch the last car ferry back to Poros.  

Lovely food, loving family but not at all a relaxed rendevous for us.

Watching the sun go down

As usual we said nothing.  No complaints.  They were nice enough to invite us and feed us.  But next year I'm going to catch some nasty lurgy and pass it on to K.   

Why don't we say anything?  They're family.  It's our own damn fault for always turning up on time.

And the next day I got a phone call to say how wonderful it was to see us and thank you so much for the freshly made sticky cakes and liqueur I brought as a gift.

It was all very genuine joy that we could be together, even if it was for a short time.

As the say here

Tin na kanoume

What can we do

 and 

shrug the shoulders.

But

next year........ 

15 th August

The festival of the Virgin Mary

Panagia is the greek name for the Virgin Mary

The most important Greek festival.  Athens empties as everyone returns to their villages or islands or goes on holiday.  This year it's on a Friday so it's a long weekend, and a Public Holiday. 

Poros is overflowing with cars, bikes and people.  Roads are almost impassable with cars parked on either side and anywhere that a car can possibly fit.   Even the tiniest space will have a car squeezed in to it, under trees, in front of fire hydrants, rubbish bins and even the car ferry ramp, when it's not in use.

We went down to the harbour at 8am when the supermarket opened.  Boxes were piled high outside, crates upon crates of fruit and vege.  All waiting to be put away inside.  The staff couldn't fill the shelves fast enough.  

We got what we wanted and got out.

Up in the hills there was peace and quiet

There's a road block and only residents like us are allowed in

The pine forests are tinder dry

As you've no doubt read there are horrendous fires raging in different parts of Greece, all fanned by high winds.

15th..morning news

The fires are slowly coming under control. 

 

Celebratory meal in our house

Lamb and potatoes

Overnight in the slowcooker

With garlic, thyme, oregano, bay leaves, wine and bone broth

Today is an important name day For those named Mary, Maria, Panayiota (female) Panagiotis (male) 

And any other name related to the Virgin Mary. There are many. 

We will be celebrating with the extended family tomorrow. 

Today is Friday and although it's an important feast day Friday is a day of fasting. So although we will be eating our lamb today many in the family will not be eating meat or animal products. 

Some in the family have been fasting for the last 14 days. Again, not us. 

Tomorrow we will all be dining together, eating lamb chops and pork souvlaki

Picturesque Houses and High Winds

Halfway up the hill.

The family house. That narrow little house with its blue shutters open.

Neighbours are so close we yell

'gazuntite' (yitses) 

When they sneeze

There are layers of houses that  all look the same.  I recall in days gone by traipsing round the streets with a young english guy who couldn't remember where he had rented a room. Fortunately I knew most of the rented rooms and we did a tour of them all till we found the right one. 

 It's ok going down.  Everything is at the bottom by the sea.  Finding your way back is another story. Take a photo of your airbnb before you leave for the evening and have a few drinks.

The bay full of yachts on a windy day.

They untie from the dock and anchor out in the bay where they are sheltered from strong winds.

We've had over a week of gale force winds, 6-7 on the Beaufort scale

This summer wind is called the 'meltemi'.  It blows from the north and is supposed to bring some cooler air.  

It blows all the bougainvillia flowers straight into our front door and fills the house with dust.

Tourist flotillas, 6 or more yachts which travel from island to island in convoy, stay tied up in port.  They mostly have an experienced captain but the 'crew', probably on a first time yachting holiday, are rookies with sensitive stomachs. 

It's good for seasoned yachties.  They can unfurl their sails. But it's also unpredicatable.  A catamaran with a crew of 5 had to be rescued by the coastguard yesterday near the cycladic island of Paros. It was a big operation.  A passing ferry was first on the scene and stood by protecting the catamaran from the rough seas.  A SuperPuma helicopter flew in with searchlights  and a coast guard vessel lifted the crew to safety. 

A few passengers on the ferry complained because the boat docked in Piraeus several hours late.  Can you believe it! 

Bougainvillia in full bloom

Steps steps everywhere

You'll notice that most of the older women have bent, bandy knees.  Knees which ache from climbing up and down steps carrying heavy bags of shopping.   The access to some houses is difficult. There are several narrow roads and the elderly and infirm can be brought up from the harbour by taxi but they'll still have flights of steps to climb before they reach their front door.

The steps are very slippery in winter and it is only in recent years that handrails have been put in.

This set of steps goes on and on right up to the top to the old mill

There are lots of narrow alleyways 

Looking down to the Highschool and across to the tourist bay of Askeli

Nosey neighbour!

Ancient and Modern

My favourite ancient ruin ....

This 3,000 year old bridge can be walked over but I imagine locals and the Antiquity people were not too pleased when this photo showed up on social media.   

A modern car is a few tons heavier than a chariot and horse that the bridge was built for. 

Built in the Cyclopean style around 1,200 BC

22 metres long

2.50 metres wide

The Arkadiko bridge was part of a military highway between the 2 ancient cities of Tiryns and Epidavros and part of a greater highway network.  

The road has stone curbs to keep fast moving chariot wheels away from the sides of the bridge

There are 4 other similar bridges in this area

Sam and Katy

2 of our many visitors who have posed on the bridge

It was a popular, with me, place to take visitors on our way to the ancient theatre of Epidavros.   Only an hour from Poros.  Nowadays there is a bypass and slow old secondary roads are no longer in favour with modern chauffeurs.

Epidavros Theatre - an hour down the road from us.  Just round the corner from that ancient bridge

Father

And son

Testing the acoustics

I've visited these places many times and love reading about their history and construction. 

This temple, one of many, dedicated to the Sea God Poseidon, is about an hour south of Athens.  Lord Byron has scratched his name on one of the pillars.  I couldn't find it but all the tour guides know where it is and point it out.  IF you can still get that close to the ruins.

The Temple to Apollo .  Described as 'A monumental marble gateway that has stood proudly at the entrance to Naxos harbour for over 2,500 years'. 

The temple is a popular place to watch a glorious Greek sunset

This photo showing an irreverent  tourist holding up a piece of ancient marble recently went viral.   Locals described his actions as a 'profound act of disrespect'. They were not impressed by the 'half naked modern Hercules'.

As a result there is now a wire fence around the whole area. 

Locals aren't happy about the fence either.  It 'aesthetically degrades the monument'

That's what happens when brainless tourists want to make a show.  

Rain

Rain rain don't go away

Please come again another day

Maybe tomorrow they say. 

The rain came, stalking us, waiting till we were sitting beside the sea with all our grandchildren. Then the heavens opened! 

But the grandchildren outwitted the rain, moved us lock, stock and barrel, tables laden with souvlaki and pizza, glasses full of wine and beer.  We carried on, entertained by the thunder and lightening and rivers running off the tiles.  

Nels ran to grab the bike helmets. I rushed to close car windows. Thank goodness I had the foresight to close the shutters up at the house. 

 Grand children don't mind drops dripping down their backs. A bit of rain didn't stop them from fetching beers, keeping Papou's jug of wine topped up or choosing ice cream for everyone to finish the night. 

Others were enjoying the rain on their balcony. A glass of wine and a summer downpour.  A pleasurable end to a hot sweaty day

It poured down for about an hour. A good steady drenching for the olive trees

Nels and me.....looking a bit washed out 😁

They just can't resist poking out tongues 

Poppi and Jamie

Good looking kids... 

After being told off

We've picked up a few more grandkids

George on the right with

Adoptees Vassili and Dimitri. 

They've been instructed to call me Nana...... and not GrandMum. 

Three girls

Nels and Poppi and new adoption Evita.  Evita is another rower, winning medals and cups all over Greece

Go Poros 

Go Poppi and Evita

Hot Peppers

 Little what-nots....................

My salt container.  Pink salt.  Himalyan probably.  It's unrefined and sold very cheaply in the supermarket.  I love the taste.  When we go to the Navy taverna they only provide salt if you ask and they put a little in a plastic glass.

You can't eat fried potatoes or souvlaki without salt so I carry this now in my handbag. Always handy to have salt in your bag. 

Three red hot peppers given to me by a neighbour.

I already have these in the garden.  They come up by themselves every summer.  I told him I didn't want any more but he appeared with these 3.  So we have red hot chilli peppers growing all over the garden, in pots, and planted amongst the tomatoes and pumpkins

A scarab beetle came along and landed on K during a church service.

A sign?

But of what.  

They are symbols of rebirth, transformation and growth,

prosperity and good fortune.

They give protection to the living, guide the dead to afterlife.

He's pretty well covered then, in this life or the next

View of the bay below us. You can see the hills around Athens on the far horizon.

Thanks to neighbour Giolanta

Festivals

 Summer church fiestas come one after another in July and August. 

We're counting down to 15th August, the biggest holiday of all. The country closes down. 

Many attend church services, especially at a Monastery or church with an icon of the Madonna which performs miracles.

  Islands in the Cyclades are known for their celebrations. Every village sets up chairs and tables in the main Square. There will be live music, local specialities on the menu, wine and song. Greeks and foreigners dance through the night. 

15th August is the celebration of the Assumption of the Virgin Mary.  It is an important festival in the Orthodox church but also all across Catholic Europe.

On July 26  the church across the valley from us, dedicated to Saint Paraskevi, a female saint who is a protector of the eyes has a service of celebration.   K always attends one or both of the services. This year we went together to the early morning one.  It was cooler than the evening liturgy. 

Poppi with Evita and Luli 

Kneading the dough

Last year 2 of the granddaughters and a friend of theirs had a sleepover.  The girls made a loaf of Holy bread and took it down the next morning.

  This year I didn't make any bread at all.  There is a tradition at these services to bring a loaf with a special Holy stamp and 5 sweet loaves representing the 5 loaves that fed the 5,000.  Was it 5,000.  I have baked these in years gone by and we have taken them to the church along with 3 candles and an offering of olive oil.  In days of yore.  

It's easier to order them from a local bakery or grocer.  

Because of the fire hazard there was a road block about a kilometre from the church.  Cars were stopped but they were allowed to park and everyone had to walk down.  Honestly, if someone wanted to throw a match into the forest it would have been easier if they were on foot.

There was a huge uproar that evening because the taverna next to the road block had live music and roast pig and everyone and their dog were allowed through.

Everyone sits or stands outside.  First of all because it's cooler and secondly because there is only room inside for Priests, chanters and a handful of worshippers.

The service is broadcast by loudspeaker for those outside, which is why we can hear it across the valley at our place

Three mighty cypress trees.  There are half a dozen planted around the church.  

The icon of the Saint decorated with flowers.

As you come come down you pay a few cents and buy a simple beeswax candle, light it and place it in a container of sand before kissing the icon and crossing yourself 3 times.  Or at least that's what K does.

After that he's free to greet friends and neighbours 

One of our bossy neighbours came along muttering about fire hazards and blew all the candles out.  Self-important git.  

There was a murmur of disapproval as he put out the candles but everyone knows him and it was not the time or place to start an argument.  He got blasted later on Facebook.    

Yes. there was/is a fire risk but the candles were not unattended and are only allowed to burn till the end of the service.

Elderly neighbour Vaso came down the steps escorted by her daughter. All the neighbourhood turns up at these yearly services.  She found a chair beside me and we had a quick natter and watched with amusement the flock of young children leaping gleefully up and down the steps.  There were 3 families with about 5 children each.

K nudged me, as he always does, when it was time to stand up, or the priest was to appear swinging the incense burner.   It lets off clouds of aromatic smoke.  

There were baskets and baskets of sweet bread and Holy bread.      This time I  remembered to bring a roomy handbag and a large plastic bag.  I filled up the plastic bag with big chunks of various breads.  As did everyone else I might add.

Some of it was really nice, soft and sweet.  Some loaves had a lot of aniseed and mastiha (a greek spice) in them.  I got a good selection.  Kept in the fridge away from ants they provided K with breakfast for many days.

Further down the hill are the remains of a nunnery.  I don't know much about it's history but it has been gone for many years.  All that's left is the well and a few foundation stones.

Saints' Fiesta Days

JULY

17th Saint Marina

20th Profit Elijah

25th Saint Anna

27th  Agios Panteleimon (male saint)

AUGUST

6th Agios Sotiras (male saint)

15th Virgin Mary

26th Natalia and Adrianos (that's my Luli's name day)

27th Agios Fanourios (male saint) the finder of lost items

30th Saint Alexander

Those are the days of celebration for the more important Saints.  There are quite a few others